Japanese Culture in New York - Chopsticks NY

What is Ramen? How it’s made and how you can enjoy it.

Ramen is a Japanese comfort food loved by everybody from small children to the elderly. It’s not a staple of Japanese cuisine, but it is something deeply connected to when, where, and how people have been raised.

Unlike other Japanese noodles such as soba (buckwheat noodles), udon (thick flour noodles), and somen (thin flour noodles), ramen has its origins in China. It is not known when the Japanese adopted these Chinese noodles, but ramen’s popularity in Japan grew and spread nationwide during the 1940s.

So what’s the definition of “ramen,” anyway? Simply put, it’s a soup with noodles and various toppings. The noodles are made of flour, egg, water, kansui (salt water), and some other seasonings. The soup is comprised of a base broth and flavorful seasonings. Ramen chefs play with the balance of different ingredients to create original ramen. The variety of toppings is numerous since there are virtually endless possibilities. Each ramen chef has his or her own personal style, but regional trends are usually apparent since chefs often use locally grown ingredients.

In the United States, the word “ramen” might remind you of freeze-dried instant ramen, and, yes, it is one aspect of ramen noodles. Real ramen, however, has various features to tempt one’s palette.

4 keys to understanding ramen

These are the four important factors for understanding ramen. They’ll also helps you to find your favorite kind of ramen. Ramen chefs typically play with the balance of these four elements.

1. Type of noodles Thickness, shape, texture, smoothness of the surface, and degree of curliness--each factor plays an important role in determining the flavor of ramen.

2. Soup (Base broth) Several types of broths are used for making ramen soup: tonkotsu (pork bone), chicken, vegetable, and seafood (flavored with anchovy, seaweed, bonito, scallops, etc.). Aroma as well as flavor change the taste of ramen. Many ramen shops mix several broths to add to the depth of flavor.

3. Seasoning flavor Shio: salt
Miso: soybean paste. Different types of miso produce different flavors. Some places use multiple kinds of miso to create a complicated flavor.
Shoyu: soy sauce

4. Toppings (1)Chashu: roasted or boiled pork
(2)Menma, or Shinachiku: bamboo shoots
(3)Scallions: chopped, sliced, or julienned
(4)Naruto: fish cake
(5)Egg: Seasoned boiled egg is often used. Japanese people love soft-boiled rather than hard-boiled eggs. Raw egg is also eaten in some areas.
Benishoga: pickled ginger
(6)Nori: seaweed
Kikurage: cloud ear mushroom
Assorted vegetables: spinach, moyashi (bean sprout), corn, wakame (seaweed), etc.
Others: A touch of scallion oil, maayu (garlic oil), and sesame oil are used for adding a kick of a flavor. Lard and pork shoulder fat can create body and smoothness in the soup. Grated garlic, roasted garlic, and roasted sesame are other popular additions.

Ramen Map

Although ramen comes in many varieties, it does have regional distinctiveness. Here is a generalized ramen map of Japan.

(1)Asahikawa: Its rich soup has a shoyu flavor with tonkotsu broth base. Noodles are medium thick and curly.

(2)Sapporo: This area is famous for miso ramen. Noodles tend to be medium thin to medium thick, chewy and curly.

(3)Kitakata: Flat, thick, and curly noodles are the distinctive features of this ramen. Its shoyu flavored soup has body.

(4)Tokyo: The light, clear, shoyu-flavored soup makes the ramen stand out. Thin, curly noodles are customary in this city.

(5)Yokohama: It is known as the birthplace of ramen. The traditional Yokohama ramen boasts a clear, shoyu-tonkotsu soup and extremely thick noodles.

(6)Wakayama: The flavor of its thick soup is divided into simple tonkotsu and shoyu. Noodles are flat and straight.

(7)Tokushima: The dark, shoyu-flavored tonkotsu soup makes the ramen of this region famous. Also, it is the only region to use raw eggs rather than boiled eggs everywhere else. Noodles are straight.

(8)Fukuoka
(Hakata & Kita-Kyushu): This area is particularly famous for tonkotsu soup. Its milky, thick tonkotsu soup has shio and shoyu flavors. Noodles are thin and straight.

(9)Kumamoto: With additional maayu (roasted garlic oil) flavor, Kumamoto style tonkotsu is a bit richer than that of Fukuoka. Fried garlic gives it a kick, too. They use medium thick, straight noodles.

(10)Okinawa: Okinawa region has its own unique food culture. Its noodle equivalent to ramen is called Soki Soba. Boiled pork belly is the most important ingredient. Noodles are flat.

My personal preference goes back to the original Tokyo ramen.
I recall it was about 10 or 15 years ago when tonkotsu broth became popular in Tokyo. Lots of ramen stands appeared, and the traditional shoyu-based Tokyo ramen was overwhelmed by the rich, thick tonkotsu. I loved that taste in those days, but its appeal was temporary. As the types of ramen available in Tokyo become more numerous, my preference goes back to the original Tokyo ramen with its clear shoyu soup, curly noodles, and basic toppings such as chashu (roasted pork), naruto, and scallion. It makes me homesick.

--- Akihiro Yamamoto

Nothing is better than Yokohama“Ie-kei” ramen.
Yokohama is renowned for “ie-kei” ramen, which signifies some ramen houses associated with a legendary ramen house, Yoshimura-Ya. The Chinese character “ya” means family, and it can also be pronounced “ie” in Japanese, that’s why we call the ramen of Yoshimura-Ya’s collateral families “ie-kei,” the “family” ramen. I love its rich tonkotsu broth and extremely thick noodles, boiled al dente. The pork shoulder fat adds buttery flavor and there is always grated garlic on the counter, so we can add as much as we like. The more garlic, the tastier the ramen is.

--- Ai Tatebayashi

Tonkotsu-based Kita-Kyushu ramen is the best.
Fukuoka Prefecture, where I come from, has two famous tonkotsu ramen styles: Hakata and Kita-Kyushu. I like both, but what I crave most is the ramen from my hometown, Kita-Kyushu City. Its noodles are slightly thin, unlike the Hakata-style ramen. An abundance of toppings--chashu (roasted pork), boiled egg, bean sprouts, scallions, kikurage--gives it a special quality. Black pepper and grated garlic perfect the flavor. In the Moji ward of Kita-Kyushu, I recommend Minzu Ramen, which is run by an elderly couple. Its hours vary due to the owners’ physical condition, so you’re lucky if it happens to be open during your visit. I miss the taste a lot.

--- Kasumi Abe

Report from Shin Yokohama Raumen Museum

“A Nostalgic Trip through Japan with Its National Food: Ramen”

When I travel to Japan, my friends always ask, “what is the first thing you want to do?” I always reply with the same answer, “eat a bowl of ramen.” Most non-Japanese people who have never traveled to Japan do not realize that the national food of Japan is not sushi, but ramen. The best place when visiting the Tokyo/Yokohama area to experience the different flavors of ramen, the history of ramen, and regional variations, is at the Shin Yokohama Raumen Museum, located in Shin Yokohama, just a five minutes walk from Shin Yokohama Station.

Established in the spring of 1994, this one-of-a-kind museum is a trip back in time to Japan circa 1958. The backdrop is a setting at sunset during the Post World War II reconstruction period. This setting recalls a nostalgic time in Japan of mom and pop stores and neighborhoods, prior to Japan being known as a futuristic place of electronics, bullet trains and cutting edge fashion.

Upon arrival, I received a brochure in English describing each ramen shop and their particular flavors and region, as well as the historical setting. The top floor of the museum showcases the history of both the traditional ramen shop, the popular rise of instant ramen that most non-Japanese have come to know and a gift shop. The first floor down is a combination of ramen shops, a bar, bakery and various nostalgic items like television sets, cameras, and neighborhoods set in 1958 Japan. The bottom floor consists of ramen shops with the center serving as a sitting area with storytellers. The museum was a mixture of your average Japanese people eating lunch, from the construction worker to the stereotypical schoolgirl, as well as tour groups from China and a few Westerners such as myself.

There are eight different shops from various regions of Japan in the museum. In front of each shop is a vending machine where you can choose the type and size of ramen you would like to eat, as well as various condiments such as boiled eggs that are still soft in the center, extra bamboo-shoots, nori and chashu. Each shop has its own distinct style and flavor depending on the type of soup, which varies regionally. I recommend that anyone who goes to the Raumen Museum should go very hungry and buy sample sizes, in order to go to as many of the shops as possible to get a wide array of variations. I was able to go to four shops and sample all four flavors. To my surprise, my two favorites were the Shio Ramen from the shop Hachiya (Hokkaido) and Tonkotsu ramen from Komurasaki (Kyushu). I had always favored Shoyu ramen from Tokyo, but found that the complex flavors of the soup from these two distinguished shops, and condiments such as the eggs and garlic chips gave me a new food experience that I can’t wait to experience again.

---- Reported by David Wolfe

Shin Yokohama Raumen Museum
2-14-21 Shinyokohama, Kohoku-ku,
Yokohama-City, 222-0033
TEL: (+81) -45-471-0503 (Japanese Only)
www.raumen.co.jp

Deep complex flavors of Tonkotsu Ramen from the shop Komurasaki.

The three flavors of Hachiya: (from Top): Shoyu, Miso and Shio.

The nostalgic setting of 1958 Japan at twilight available all day.

Naruto Ramen |
Rai Rai Ken |
Izakaya Riki/Yakiniku Izakaya Riki |
212 Fukumatsu |
go Restaurant |
Hakata Ippudo |
Izakaya Ten |

Ramen Santoka |

Ramen Setagaya

Naruto Ramen

COMPLEX & MILD: WELL-CRAFTED BASE
DETERMINES THE QUALITY OF THE SOUP

Noodles: Thick and curly.
Soup: Soy-sauce-flavored clear soup. They mix pork, chicken and seafood broths to create a particularly profound but mild taste.
Toppings: Their toppings include boiled pork; seasoned, soft-boiled eggs; bean sprouts; bamboo shoots; scallions; nori (seaweed); and, of course, naruto (steamed fish paste). Their super-thick boiled pork is amazingly soft and succulent.
Highlights: Their superb soup is the star of this ramen. Also, the toppings are carefully prepared to maximize the ramen’s flavor. For example, the yolk of the soft-boiled egg melts and blends nicely with the soup in your mouth. Big portions of boiled pork harmonize with the thick noodle.

"Naruto" is not just the name of the hero of an anime and manga series but also one of the most important ramen noodle toppings. Naruto Ramen, which is also "topped" with the name, is the one and only ramen house on the Upper East Side. As soon as it opened this past October, it has been attracting neighborhood crowds: Americans willing to try gourmet cheap eats and Japanese who have been hungry for real ramen. What they crave is its signature dish, soy broth-based Naruto Ramen. "We are proud of our base soup, which is carefully crafted," says Naruto Ramen's manager. "First, we make pork broth by boiling it for 2 hours, mix it with chicken broth, and leave it for one whole day. Then, we combine the mixed broths with seafood broth, which has a flavor that includes kelp, dried bonito, dried anchovy, et cetera." The result is a profound, intricate, yet mild flavor. This base soup is used for their two other types of ramen, Miso Ramen and Curry Ramen, as well. On Mondays, they serve any type of ramen for $6.50, and on Wednesdays, the popular ramen companion gyoza (fried dumpling) is offered for $2.50.

Naruto Ramen $8.50

Restaurant Data

Naruto Ramen
1596 3rd Ave. (bet. 89th & 90th Sts.)
New York, NY 10021
TEL: 212-289-7803
Mon-Sun: 12pm-10pm
Counter: 16 seats

Rai Rai Ken

RAMEN TO KEEP YOU HEALTHY
THROUGH THE WINTER

Noodles: This dish uses curly noodles of average thickness.
Soup: The base of this dish is miso (soybean paste) but it has lots of sesame added to it to give it a sweet taste as opposed to the saltiness of most ramen. It is also lighter than typical ramen soups.
Toppings: The ingredients are bean sprouts, cabbage, onion, crispy garlic, chicken and scallions. The crunchiness of the garlic chips is a nice counterpart to the softer vegetables, which are boiled（not stir-fried） to give miso ramen points for healthiness.
Highlights: Although ramen is not usually thought of as being good for you, because this version is packed with so many vegetables as well as chicken instead of pork, it is as healthy as they come!

Rai Rai Ken is considered a forerunner of Manhattan’s ramen scene. Established in 2000, it was one of the first places to concentrate on ramen in the East Village and its customers are comprised largely of nearby college students. The most popular ramen among Rai Rai Ken’s non-Japanese clientele is miso-based and filled with lots of boiled vegetables, and it is an original dish that was created when the store opened. As opposed to the pork found in the shoyu (soy sauce) and shio (salt) ramen it offers, Rai Rai Ken’s miso ramen contains chicken. Its base is made from three different types of miso (white/red/mix) and it has cabbage, scallions, bean sprouts, onions and garlic chips as well as lots of sesame in it, making it a sweeter and healthier ramen. According to Manager Chikako Shibata, this is something customers are aware of, as they often order the miso ramen when they feel a cold coming on or after getting sick. What would ramen be without gyoza (dumplings), and the napa cabbage filled pork gyoza at Rai Rai Ken are delicious and the perfect accompaniment to any of the three ramen options.

Miso Ramen $7.40

Restaurant Data

Rai Rai Ken
214 E. 10th St., (bet. 1st & 2nd Sts.)
New York, NY 10003
TEL: 212-477-7030
Sun-Thu: 12 pm to midnight
Fri-Sat: 12 pm to 2 am
Counter: 12 seats; Window: 2 seats
*Cash only!

Naruto Ramen |
Rai Rai Ken |
Izakaya Riki/Yakiniku Izakaya Riki |
212 Fukumatsu |
go Restaurant |
Hakata Ippudo |
Izakaya Ten |

Ramen Santoka |

Ramen Setagaya

Izakaya Riki / Yakiniku Izakaya Riki

HOT, SOUR, THICK --- THIS ORIGINAL SOUP
BOOSTS YOUR APPETITE!

Noodles: This dish uses noodles of average thickness, which are just slightly curly.
Soup: The base is inspired by Chinese soup, Su Raa Tan (hot and sour soup). In place of the pepper that is customarily added, this dish calls for tobanjan (garlic chili sauce), which its creator thought best complemented the noodles.
Toppings: The soup is comprised of shredded pork, egg drop, bamboo shoots, scallions, tofu and kikurage (cloud ear mushrooms). Red pepper flecks from the tobanjan are found throughout the soup, hence its “hot” designation!
Highlights: This soup is notable for its thickness, making it the perfect dish to warm you up on a cold winter’s day. However, some customers enjoy it in hot weather as well as its spiciness makes them work up a sweat!

About five years ago, Mr. Riki Hashizume, owner of both Izakaya Riki and Yakiniku Izakaya Riki, was looking for a new offering and had a burst of inspiration. He wondered what would happen if you added noodles to the traditional Chinese dish, Su Raa Tan (hot and sour soup), and hence Suraa Tanmen was born! The combination was a winning one, and this was just another success story after his previous hit creations of Mentai Omelet (spicy cod’s roe omelet) and Special Monjayaki (Japanese pancake with various fillings such as mochi and cheese). Though Suraa Tanmen was first found at the original Riki, this dish is the perfect ending to a meal at Yakiniku Izakaya Riki consisting of barbeque, appetizers and plenty of sake! Although there’s only one of four different types of ramen on Yakiniku Izakaya Riki’s menu, its taste is addictive and will keep you coming back for more. The Suraa Tanmen’s spiciness can be adjusted for customers’ tastes and it is guaranteed to leave you content and toasty, ready to face the chill of the outside air!

Suraa Tanmen $9.50

Restaurant Data

Izakaya Riki
141 E. 45th St. (bet. 3rd & Lexington Aves.)
New York, NY 10017
TEL: 212-986-1109
Mon-Sat: 6pm- 3am, Sun: 6pm-1am
Table: 58 seats Counter: 10 seats

Yakiniku Izakaya Riki
250 E. 52nd St. (bet. 2nd & 3rd)
New York, NY 10022
TEL: 212-826-4255
Mon-Sat: 6pm-4am
Table: 60 seats Bar Counter: 5 seats

212 Fukumatsu

NOT IN THE MENU
MADE WITH STRICT DEVOTION TO RAMEN

Noodles: Curly
Soup: Chicken stock, pork meat, bonito and mackerel broth
Toppings: Spicy ground pork, roasted pork, scallion, bean sprout, bamboo shoot
Hightlights: Smooth saltiness and juicy slices of roasted pork shoulder are outstanding. Wednesday’s lunch set comes with ramen, sushi rolls, gyoza and salad ($12).

Shio Ramen $9.00

Restaurant Data

212 Fukumatsu
212 E. 52nd St.
(bet 2nd & 3rd Ave)
TEL: 212-754-4840
Mon-Fri: 12pm-2:30pm,
5:30pm-10:30pm
Sat: 5:30pm-9:30pm
Sunday Closed
Table: 37 seats
Counter: 17 seats

Naruto Ramen |
Rai Rai Ken |
Izakaya Riki/Yakiniku Izakaya Riki |
212 Fukumatsu |
go Restaurant |
Hakata Ippudo |
Izakaya Ten |

Ramen Santoka |

Ramen Setagaya

go Restaurant

HIT FOR OVER 10 YEARS, RECIPE FROM
SAPPORO --- MECCA OF RAMEN

Noodles: Thick
Soup: Chicken Stock, Tonkotsu and Miso (Perfect blend of Red and White Miso)
Toppings: Seaweed, scallion, roasted pork, boiled egg, corns, bean sprouts, sauteed onions
Highlights: Full bodied and rich soup. Shoyu ramen also available. A popular spot in the East Village known for its vendor booth.

Miso Ramen $8.50

Restaurant Data

go Restaurant
30 St. Marks Pl.
(bet. 2nd & 3rd Aves.)
TEL: 212-254-5510
Sun-Thu: 5pm-1am
Fri, Sat: 5pm-2:30am
Table: 46 seats
Vendor booth: 10 seats
Counter: 8 seats

Hakata Ippudo

COMING SOON! NO SHORTCUTS
IN PREPARATION OF GENUINE RAMEN

Noodles: Thin, Straight
Soup: Tonkotsu 100% soup boiled for over 15 hours to extracts all flavors
Toppings: Roasted pork, kikurage (cloud ear mushroom), scallion, bean sprouts, flavored oil
Hightlights: Tonkotsu soup is w/o overwhelming pork aroma, and mild yet rich in flavor. It matches harmoniously with the homemade noodle.

Akamaru (Price: TBA)

Restaurant Data

Hakata Ippudo
65 4th Ave.
(bet. 9th and 10th Sts.)
TEL: 212-388-0088　
www.ippudo.com/ny
Sun-Sat: 11am-1am
Table: 43 seats
Lounge: 28 seats
Counter: 6 seats

Naruto Ramen |
Rai Rai Ken |
Izakaya Riki/Yakiniku Izakaya Riki |
212 Fukumatsu |
go Restaurant |
Hakata Ippudo |
Izakaya Ten |

Ramen Santoka |

Ramen Setagaya

Izakaya Ten

AUTHENTIC TONKOTSU RAMEN WITH
SIGNATURE TENDER ROAST PORK BELLY

Noodles: Thin egg noodle
Soup: Tonkotsu and vegetable soup base or soy sauce base
Toppings: Roasted pork belly, bamboo shoot, scallion, naruto, pickled ginger
Highlights: Many interesting izakaya small plates and signature cocktails, interesting sake and shochu selections.

Tonkotsu Ramen $8.00

Restaurant Data

Izakaya Ten
207 10th Ave.
(bet. 22th & 23rd St.)
TEL: 212-627-7777
Mon-Sat: 12pm-3:30pm
Sun: 5:30pm-midnight
Table: 57 seats
Bar: 8 seats

Ramen Santouka

ORIGINAL RAMEN FROM HOKKAIDO IS
FAVORITE AMONG PATRONS OF ALL AGES

Noodles: Medium-thin, curly
Soup: Shio; Tonkotsu (Pork) base, vegetable and seafood flavored broth
Toppings: Scallion, bamboo shoots, kikurage (cloud ear mushroom), naruto, pickled plum, roasted pork, sesame seeds
Highlights: Japanese particularly love this Shio Ramen prepared with perfectly balanced Tonkotsu soup.

Shio Ramen $6.99

Restaurant Data

Ramen Santouka
595 River Road Edgewater,
NJ 07020
Mitsuwa Marketplace Food court
Sun-Fri: 11am-7:30pm
Sat: 11am-8:30pm
TEL: 201-941-1004
www.santouka.co.jp
Table: 250 seats
Counter: 60 seats

Ramen Setagaya

NO MSG --- ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS
FROM JAPAN

Noodles: Original noodle, medium, straight
Soup: Chicken stock and seafood broth from bonito, dried sardines and kelp shipped directly from Japan.
Toppings: Roasted pork, boiled egg, scallion, seaweed, bamboo shoot
Highlights: Simple yet rich salt flavor. Extremely popular ramen know for lines of diners finally arrived in NY.

Shio Ramen $9.50

Restaurant Data

Ramen Setagaya
141 1st Ave
(bet. St. Marks & 9th St.)
TEL: 212-529-2740
www.setaga-ya.com
Sun-Thu: 12pm-3pm, 4:30pm-11pm
Fri, Sat: 12pm-3pm, 4:30pm-midnight
Table: 14 seats
Counter: 9 seats